| Issue 12 | |
May 2002 |
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The modest buildings that house Kings(Dolgellau) youth hostel would win few prizes for architectural merit but where they do score is in their prime location. Situated in a shallow wooded valley, overshadowed by the great arc of cliffs making up the north face of Cadair Idris, the hostel is perfectly positioned for an ascent of the mountain by the popular Pony Path.
The scenic jewel of Cadair Idris is matched by another, perhaps less well known, but just as magnificent in its own way; this is the Mawddach estuary. Access to the shoreline was opened up recently with the establishment of a cycling/walking trail along the old railway line that runs beside the estuary from Dolgellau to Barmouth.
On a recent one night stop-over at Kings, arriving at 2pm on Wednesday afternoon and needing to leave early the following day, I needed to seek an alternative to an ascent of Cadair.
Arriving at the hostel I parked the car and headed back down the narrow metalled access road. The April sky was clear and the bright light illuminated patches of green weed clinging to rocks in the fast flowing stream alongside the road. The grassy banks beneath the trees were dotted by brilliant yellow stars of celandines, absorbing and reflecting the sun's rays. This was perfect weather for a walk, a day to refresh mind and body.
Crossing the main road, I took the track between an avenue of tall conifer trees, past the Abergwynant Riding stables with its horses quietly grazing, soon arriving at the Mawddach Trail. My destination was Penmaenpool, a local beauty spot, with its wooden toll bridge, RSPB birdlife centre, and the George III hotel. As I walked along the well surfaced track a grey heron glided across the reed beds and mallards and shellducks pottered about in the marshy ground by the river.
Unfortunately the RSPB centre, housed in an old signal box, was closed (it opens daily from Spring Bank holiday), but the pub was not and I joined the handful of other customers on the outside benches to enjoy the sun, the view and the drink.
The return was initially by the same route. There is a long straight stretch of track shortly after leaving the Hotel and at first sight it is rather daunting, but fuelled by a pint of Ruddles bitter I set off at a brisk pace and the ground was soon covered. On reaching the main road I was tempted by a footpath sign pointing in the direction of the hostel on the opposite side of the valley to the access road. This turned out to be a pleasant alternative through open woodland, but waymarks ceased just where they were needed at the upper end of the path, leading to some mild anxiety before I emerged onto the road just above the hostel. Where the path left the woods the views to Cadair Idris were superb. The walk, including the refreshment stop and some uncertainty about the return route, had taken 3 ½ hours.
Climb Cadair Idris by the pony path. A relatively easy route taking around 5 hours.
Walk to Penmaenpool (see above).
Hire a bike in Dolgellau and cycle down the Mawddach trail to Barmouth. This can be done in a half day, but a full day would be more leasurely, particularly for inexperienced cyclists.
Walk to Cregennan Lakes. A clear waymarked path leads to the lakes and return by a different route is possible. Allow 2-3 hours.
Kings offers traditional style youth hostel accommodation in a beautiful setting four miles outside the small town of Dolgellau. All rooms have six beds and many are housed in the annexe, a short walk from the main building. Meals are not provided, except for a limited period to groups. The members kitchen has some seating but unless the hostel is very quiet it is probably better to take your meal through to the large dining room. The comfortable lounge has an open fire.
