| Issue 15 | |
October 2002 |
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After an unusually dry late summer and early autumn it was inevitable that the wet season would eventually arrive. It did and unfortunately for me its arrival corresponded with my visit to Llanberis YHA.
The most obvious thing to do from Llanberis is to follow the well trod path alongside the mountain railway to the summit of Snowdon, there hopefully to enjoy the views from the highest peak in England and Wales. However, when the rain is coming down in stair-rods and the mountains have vanished in the clouds, it's time to activate plan B.
Fortunately there is provision in Llanberis for those occasional wet days! I chose to visit the Welsh Slate Museum, situated a short walk from the village, at the eastern tip of Llyn Padarn. The museum is housed in the imposing buildings that used to house the quarry workshops. As a part of the National Museums and Galleries of Wales admission to the site is free.
There is an introductory film, in 3D, explaining the history of the quarry; the peak of extraction was in the 19th century when many thousands of tons were being extracted annually and closure occurred in the late 1960's. The business of quarrying and dressing the slate both in the past and the present day are explained in a separate video ( McAlpine's are still producing slate on a large scale at their Penrhyn quarry at Bethesda in the next valley). There are regular demonstrations by craftsmen of slate splitting and dressing.
The power source for the workshops was a giant waterwheel; this has been fully restored and again supplies power for the various machine tools via overhead shafts and belts. It is perhaps ironic that such a green power source was used to service an industy with no pretensions to sustainability. There is an authentic feel to these workshops, not at all like a museum, resulting from a combination of original equipment in dark sheds and the clanking of overhead shafts. Another major attraction at the site is a row of quarrymen's cottages, demonstrating workers' living conditions at three different periods in the quarry's history.
I spent around two hours at the museum before setting out to explore the adjacent Llyn Padarn Country Park, the rain by now having passed on. A small hut near the museum was labelled the Vivian Diving Centre and passing through a dank archway leads to a hidden pool - deep, clear and dark - available for use by those with the neccessary skills.
Also on the same site is the terminus for the Llanberis Lake Railway, a steam hauled narrow gauge line which gives a 40 minute ride along the shoreline.
There are numerous waymarked footpaths through the oak woods that make up the country park. The one I followed contoured along the hillside, occasionally leading to viewpoints over Llyn Padarn, an attractive lake located in low hills. On the return the old quarry hospital was passed; this is now a museum (small charge). Situated next to the railway terminus is the restored Vivian incline. This was used to lower slate from the hillside to the railway line for trans-shipment to Port Dinorwic. Demonstrations are held daily Easter to October around 2pm.
Leaving the country park I made my way to Dolbadarn castle. This puny looking castle would not have posed much of a problem for Edward 1's armies. The round keep is the only remaining structure but surprisingly there is an almost hidden narrow staircase, leading to a small viewing platform at the top of the tower.
Near the castle a path led through woods, climbing the hillside above Llanberis. Looking down on the village it was noticeable, and only to be expected, that all the roofs were constructed from slate. Across the valley the massive terraces where men blasted slate from the flanks of Elidir Fawr could be seen stretching upwards, only the peak left untouched, giving the impression of an enormous, unfinished grey pyramid.
But this was only one segment of the view: to the left lay the calm waters of Llyn Padarn with its small boats and gentle wooded hills; to the right were the looming buttresses marking the start of the renowned Llanberis pass; behind were the grassy lower flanks of Snowdon.
It was now late afternoon and the rain having returned it was time to head back to the hostel.
Pull on your boots, pack your waterproof and join the crowds for the long but easy walk to the top of Snowdon.
If you're feeling rich take the train to the top of Snowdon ( return fare in 2002 £18)
Visit the slate museum; a well presented explanation of a recently ended way of life in these and other parts of North Wales, providing plenty of food for thought, and casting light on how the mountain gained its scars (free of charge).
The other show in town is the Electric Mountain, a visitor centre and underground tour of Edison Mission Energy's Dinorwig power station. This massive pumped storage generator was built wholly underground on the same site as the old quarry. The visitor centre in the village is free, the bus tour of the station costs £5.
Take a gentle walk through Llyn Padarn Country Park, visit the quarrymen's hospital, take a ride on the narrow gauge steam railway, visit Dolbadarn castle.
After your day out visit Pete's Eats, a cafe which has been catering for mountaineers and other outdoor types since 1978; a relaxing place for a bacon butty and pint of tea.
The hostel is attractively situated on the hillside, half a mile from the village high street, giving good views of the surrounding countryside. A functional rather than interesting building, the bedroom and washroom facilities have just been extensively remodelled, the new showers being particularly spacious. The recently refurbished dining room is available to those taking hostel meals and to self-caterers. The common room is equipped with tv and a pool table.
