| Issue 16 | |
January 2003 |
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After several weeks of warm but very wet weather the prospects finally began to look up; time to book the hostel and make for the hills. We arrived at Capel Curig at 4pm with the clouds just beginning to part, allowing the setting sun to produce some unusual lighting effects in the sky and on the mountainsides. Would this photograph well ? - we parked in the small car park behind the Joe Brown outdoor shop and gave it a go.
Having breakfasted well we set off towards Llyn Crafnant, taking the footpath which leaves the main road a few minutes walk from the hostel. The clearly marked track climbs gently up the hillside past rocky outcrops and soon reaches the head of the pass, giving views down the valley to Llyn Crafnant. The way was firm but rather wet after the recent heavy rain, with a little snow and hail remaining from the previous night's wintry showers.
By the time we reached the narrow metalled road that skirts the lake, the early morning cloud had dispersed and the light wind had dropped. We sat on boulders at the lake side, bathed in intense sunlight reflecting off the glassy water, nibbling chocolate digestives and sipping coffee - if only it was always like this!
Having completed a circuit of the lake we returned by the same route. On descending towards Capel Curig we were able to admire Snowdon's angled peaks, standing out crystal clear against a pale blue sky and lightly dusted with snow. The leisurely walk had taken around four hours.
After a pint of tea and a sandwich at the Snowdonia cafe there was time to walk up through the village to the twin lakes, Llynau Mymbyr, where people were leaping out of cars to photograph the classic view of Snowdon. We walked past Plas-y-Brenin mountain centre, where the dry ski slope was proving very popular and continued through the woods on Moel Siabod's lower flanks, finally coming to rest before a roaring coal fire in the bar of the Tyn-y-coed hotel.
Capel Curig is well placed to serve the needs of visitors to this part of Snowdonia. It is a small, straggling settlement in a mountain setting, mostly astride the A5 trunk road from Betws-y-coed to Holyhead but partly on the A4086 leading to Llanberis. The position allows easy access to many of the mountains of central Snowdonia: Moel Siabod, the Carnedd's, Tryfan and the Glyders, and only a little further afield, Snowdon.
There are three hotels each with public bars serving meals
Bryn Tyrch Hotel.
The nearest to the hostel and very busy with diners on the Saturday night we visited. Home cooked food with an imaginative menu for around £8-9.
Cobden's Hotel.
Lounge bar serving home cooked food, again around £8-9. "Mountain bar" at the rear of building is built into the rock face. The cricket ball on display by reception was used to take a hat-trick in a test against Australia.
Tyn-y-coed Hotel.
Furthest from the hostel but a cosy retreat when we visited late in the afternoon and sat by the fire. Food available at lower prices than the other two. Yellow London-Holyhead stagecoach on display in the car park.
For those requiring refreshment and/or shelter during the day there are at least three cafes, the Snowdonia next door to the hostel, the Pinnacle at the crossroads, and the Clogwyn at the back of the filling station. Also useful are the four shops selling outdoor gear.
Walks from the village include
Moel Siabod (872m). The most popular route to the top of this mountain begins at Pont Cyfyng at the Betws end of the village.
Llyn Crafnant is an easy half day ramble. It can be extended by crossing the low ridge to Llyn Cowlyd and completing a circular route to the A5 just north of Capel Curig.
The hostel is situated up a short drive from the main A5 road and there is parking for around six or seven cars in the grounds. The regular bus from Betws-y-coed will stop at the hostel. Buses are also available to Pen-y-pass and Idwal cottage youth hostels.
Capel Curig YHA generally offers traditional YHA hospitality but does differ from the norm in meals provision: a breakfast is included in the overnight charge but there is no evening meal available (except for pre-booked groups) - take your own or treat yourself to a pub meal.
There is a comfortable lounge with a coal fire and a good supply of magazines, books and board games. There is no TV or games room.
