| Issue 18 | |
May 2003 |
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To the east of the small town of Tregaron in mid-Wales lies a vast upland area known as the Elenydd. This is an airy plateau cut by gentle, sometimes lush, valleys. It is an area with no major roads and with no towns or villages, just the occasional isolated farmhouse. The land useage is a mixture of sheep grazing on open land alternating with blocks of coniferous forest; here sheep munch at grass, the trees quietly grow, and the majestic red kite swoops and soars over the land.
The youth hostel, or bunkhouse as it is now known, at Tyncornel is a converted farmhouse giving good access to this country. This is a remote place and that means it is not quick to get to. Our journey began cruising on a dual carriageway at 70 mph, slowed a little on good 'A' roads, slowed further on lesser 'A' and 'B' roads around Devils Bridge, down to 30 mph or less on the well surfaced but narrow and twisty byway up the Brefi valley, culminating in walking pace for the final mile of unsurfaced track.
There are two circular walks devised by Martin Hanks available at the hostel, one of 6.5 miles and the other of 10 miles. We tried the longer route and enjoyed a varied terrain of forest trail, open moorland and valley walking. At several points we had a chance to view the red kites at quite close quarters. In fact there seemed to be as many kites as people as we met just one walker and six cyclists all day.
Although this is a sparsely populated area it is not a trackless waste. Most of the route was on well marked bridleways with only one short stretch where the path on the ground vanished and a compass was useful to get the general direction.
The finale of the walk was on the bridleway up the beautiful Doethie valley. This path was where we met the mountain bikers, not one group but three separate parties, indicating a popularity of the route with the adventurous off-road biker: in places the path is narrow, rocky, steep and wet, easy enough on foot but creating challenges for the cyclist.
Walking
follow one of the circular walking routes from the hostel
stop off on the Cambrian way (the route passes the hostel)
Cycling - follow the many bridleways in the area, linking in to quiet byways.
Touring - visit any of the following local attractions
Cors Caron nature reserve - a vast raised bog containing a variety of wild flowers and wildlife (free entry to old railway trail and observatory)
Tregaron and its Red Kite Centre, a small local museum with an emphasis on the chief ornithological attraction of the area (admission free).
Strata Florida abbey - an exotically named and attractively situated ruined abbey (charge when staffed)
UPDATE 2004
Mains electricity has arrived at Tyncornel! The power has now been switched on; no longer is it necessary to light the fragile gas mantles or carry a torch inside the building. The temperamental gas shower has been replaced by a more conventional electric one and it is now possible to keep food fresh in a fridge. The modernisation has been carried out in a sympathetic way in order to maintain the rustic charm of the place, for example the new electric lights were chosen to match as closely as possible the appearance of the old gas ones.
Come to Tyncornel if you seek a rest from the stresses and strains of 21st century urban living, an escape from motorway driving, supermarket shopping, watching tv; none of these things is available at Tyncornel.
The designation as a bunkhouse indicates that the accommodation offered is of the simple variety and this is still the case even after the introduction of electricity.
The hostel is self-catering only and the members kitchen contains the usual gas rings, a small oven and a fridge.
The common room/ dining room contains an eclectic mix of furniture and is a pleasant place to while away an evening in front of a roaring fire. The usual YHA bedding (of a high standard) is supplied in the two 8 bedded dormitories. There is no heating apart from the common room fire.
You will need to bring all food and drink with you as only the most basic of emergency supplies is available at the hostel. There is a small shop at Llanddewi-Brefi (7 miles) and a larger Spar store with extensive opening hours at Tregaron. The nearest pub is in the village of Llanddewi-Brefi.
There is plenty of parking at the hostel and the average car should have no difficulty in reaching the hostel. Travellers by public transport will need to allow for a walk in of 7 mile from Llanddewi-Brefi or 10 mile from Tregaron. There is plenty of covered, but not lockable, storage for cycles.
Tyncornel is available throughout the year to individuals and groups booked in advance. Bookings are made through YHA Central Reservations on 0870 770 8868.
For more information on the area around Tregaron visit www.tregarononline.org.
YHA had announced the closure of this hostel. The good news is that it now seems likely that from January 2007 the hostel will be taken over by a new trust known as "Elenydd Wilderness Hostels". The trust will continue to operate Tyncornel as part of the YHA network under YHA's Enterprise scheme. Until that time it will continue to be available for bookings as normal. The trust's website www.elenydd-hostels.co.uk has lots of information on the hostels and the surrounding area.