| Issue 19 | |
July 2003 |
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The grassy bank overlooking the sea was dotted with purple orchids; to my right lay the bulk of Ramsey island and a multitude of rocky islets; between lay the fearsome, rushing, swirling waters of Ramsey Sound.
So began a walk in early July along the Pembrokeshire coastal path, from Whitesands bay near St Davids youth hostel, to Caerfai Bay, a distance of around nine miles. Memories of the walk include: the quiet punctuated by the melodic song of the skylark and the harsh cries of the choughs; rounding a corner to come upon a group of seven ponies snoozing in a hollow - they slowly, grudgingly got to their feet and wandered off; the dramatic scenery of craggy hills and sandy coves.
At St Justinian (2.2 miles) two boats set out with their passengers for Ramsey Island, the thrill a minute inflatable skimming the waves, followed by the more staid progress of the traditional styled vessel.
The self-effacing cathedral, never very far away, was often out of sight in the landscape; at other times just the top of the tower was visible, suggesting it was no more than a parish church, not at all the reality.
Porth Clais, a deep inlet with small harbour, provided some useful facilities - a kiosk with tea and ices and toilets. The walk finished in time for a late lunch at Caerfai beach, an attractive sandy cove proving popular for beach games and scuba diving at the time of my visit. From here it was just a short stroll up the lane into the centre of St Davids.
The walk taking just over half a day left time to explore the cathedral. This impressive 12th century building is a place of beauty, fine architecture, history and despite the many visitors, peace. For many centuries it has been a place of pilgrimage, reputedly containing the bones of Wales' patron saint. You are requested to make a minimum donation of £2, well worth the money. Look out for the small exhibitions in the recently restored gatehouse. The adjoining severely ruined Bishop's Palace retains just enough fabric to hint at previous opulence.
St Davids is a busy place in the middle of the afternoon but despite its city status (due to the presence of the cathedral) it is in reality only a village in size. There are plenty of cafes to cater for the many visitors and there is a rather grand National Park Information Centre near the main car park.
Beaches
The best beach in St Davids is Whitesands Bay, a wide sweep of clean fine sand, with a small cafe/shop, toilets, and awarded a blue flag. This is best approached from the hostel by footpath, taking around 15 minutes. At the time of my visit this was lined by fragrant yellow honeysuckle and vivid purple spikes of foxglove.
The other good beach is Caerfai, half a mile south of St Davids centre, reached down a narrow lane followed by steep steps. Less than half the size of Whitesands this sandy cove is a good place to while away a sunny summer afternoon.
Walking
The coast path hereabouts is one of the best stretches in Pembrokeshire. The views are superb, the gradients are moderate and there is plenty of botanical interest. Unusually for a coast path it is easy to do a linear walk; on the walk described above it was possible to return to base using the Celtic Coaster bus (hourly service) from St Justinian, Porth Clais or St Davids.
Worth a visit if you've got an hour to spare is Carn Llidi. This gabbro monolith towers above the hostel and can be reached by a steep climb up a narrow footpath, with a bit of a rocky scramble at the top. The views from the top are extensive as at 181m this is the highest point on the St Davids peninsula.
Maritime Activities
Many boats trips are on offer from St Davids, departing from St Justinian. Trips around or to Ramsey Island are popular and it is possible to see a wide variety of bird life, seals, porpoises etc (prices from £17).
Looking for something more exciting? TYF Adventure offer coasteering, surfing, kayaking and climbing.
St Davids YHA occupies three buildings of a former farm, 2 miles from the centre of St Davids and offers bunkhouse type accommodation of a good standard at an affordable price.
The hostel drive is roughly surfaced but even and leads to a good sized car park. Visitors without a car can walk along the quiet lane starting by the Bishops Palace; alternatively catch the hourly Celtic Coaster bus to Whitesands Bay (£1 return)
There is a quaintly furnished but comfortable common room and in a different building a members kitchen with full facilities and adjacent dining room. Dormitories are mostly in the third, single story building with a unisex washroom.
