| Issue 20 | |
September 2003 |
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When it comes to holiday accommodation, location is everything, so the early pioneers of the youth hostel movement did very well to get their hands on Idwal Cottage in north Wales. This hostel was one of a small group opened at Easter 1931, launching the first season of YHA. Since then there has been no looking back; there was a major extension in 1959, and the hostel has recently benefitted from a major refurbishment.
Anyone who loves mountains will love Idwal. Step outside the front door and you have the choice of two magnificent mountain ranges: to the north lie the Carneddau, including Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewellyn (1064m); to the south lie the Glyderau (999m on Glyder Fawr)), Tryfan and Y Garn. All can be reached directly on foot from the youth hostel.
Serious stuff
Tryfan and the Glyderau
Tryfan is a magnet to people looking for that little bit extra excitement in their mountain walking; you'll need a sense of adventure, and one or two companions to help you out when the going gets tough for the ascent via the North Ridge.
Having descended to the pass by the easier South Ridge, gluttons for punishment will ascend Bristly Ridge, a similar scramble, to the top of Glyder Fawr.
The Carneddau
Stand by the front door of the hostel and take in the view in front of you. The triangular bulk of Pen yr Ole Wen towers above you. A thin path can be seen snaking its way up the near vertical slope.
This is the direct route to the summits of the Carneddau. A tough route and one not generally recommended because of erosion and slipperyness. There is an easier way up Pen yr Ole Wen from the far end of Llyn Ogwen. The circuit to Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewellyn, returning via Pen yr Helgi Du is another good day in the mountains, this time avoiding scrambling.
Easier options
Most people staying at Idwal Cottage will want to visit Cwm Idwal, the renowned glacial hanging valley, reached by path from the hostel.
A short easy climb leads to the mouth of the cwm, giving views of the lake and the massive dark ampitheatre of crags overlooking it.
The path continues to Idwal Slabs, where it is usually possible to watch groups of rock climbers inching their way up the smooth rocks. From here it is possible to continue with a circuit of the lake and back to the hostel. Alternatively continue past the slabs, climbing up to the boulder field at the base of the Devils Kitchen, a strange deep cleft in the cliffs. The rocky ledges here are home to many flowers, protected from grazing by their inaccessability, and often described as 'the hanging gardens'. From here either return to the lake or climb further, up a semi-constructed path, to Llyn Cwn from where paths lead to Y Garn and Glyder Fawr.
Idwal Cottage YHA lies close to the A5, 303m above sea level, at the head of Nant Ffrancon, being one of only two habitations on the site; it has its own private car park.
The hostel is self-catering only; there is a good sized kitchen and a shop selling a wide variety of foodstuffs. Meals are eaten in the dining/ common room with its chunky wood furniture and displays of rock-climbing paraphenalia from bygone times.
The common room is equipped with a pool table and there is also a small quiet room supplied with outdoor books and magazines.
Campers will find a few level pitches among the trees of the plantation opposite.
