| Issue 21 | |
November 2003 |
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The resort village of Betws-y-Coed is positioned near the confluence of the rivers Conwy and Llugwy. Here the character of the river Conwy suddenly changes from a vigorous, fast flowing mountain stream into a languid, meandering waterway, passing through a broad valley on its short journey to the sea.
Pont-y-Pair bridge was built across the river Llugwy in the 15th century and the village grew up around this. Today its a pleasant spot to sit and watch the rushing waters in the shade of mature pine trees.
Until the 19th century the main occupation was lead and zinc mining in the surrounding hills but things began to change when the London to Holyhead ( and Dublin) road was rerouted through the village and the Waterloo Bridge was built over the River Conwy in 1815. Then a colony of artists set up their studios here and their depictions of the scenery began to build up a reputation for the village; it was even described as "the most beautiful village in Wales". The coming of the railway in 1868 led to the constuction of several hotels and the village aquired the status of inland resort. More recently a number of outdoor equipment and craft shops have been established making it a good place for a spot of retail therapy, or shelter from the rain.
The countryside around Betws has an altogether softer feel to it than that found only a few miles away at Capel Curig; the hills are low and clothed in forests (living up to the "-y-Coed" of its name) and the village has just a hint of urbanity about it. However although out of sight, the mountains do give us a reminder of their proximity in the form of the waterfalls for which the locality is well known; they can be quite awesome, particularly after heavy rain.
The Swallow Falls are easily visited when staying at the hostel - just cross the road and pass through the turnstile (£1). The other popular natural water features in the area are Conwy Falls and the Fairy Glen, both of which can be visited in a half day walking trip from the village. Take the minor road alongside Cotswold's climbing shop, passing through typically open, mature forest on the way to Beaver Bridge. Cross the bridge and take the track alongside the Fairy Glen Hotel. The entrance to the glen is soon reached and, twee name aside, this is a very pleasant place, well worth the 50p entrance fee (honesty box). A short walk through pasture leads to a deep, dark, rocky cleft down which the River Conwy tumbles; it's a good place to have a picnic (benches are provided). Return to the entrance and continue up an old road climbing slowly up the valley until it emerges onto the A5 a few metres before the Conwy Falls Cafe. Pay a pound at the turnstile to visit the falls. Return to Betws by the same route.
The most recent addition to the network, Betws-y-Coed YHA is in some respects unlike any other hostel currently operating in Wales. Established under the new YHA Enterprise scheme the hostel is a franchise run by the management of the Swallow Falls Complex. In addition to a well established hotel the complex has a camp site, a cafe/bar (the Tavern) and now a hostel. It is served by a large car park (free tickets available at reception). The site is two miles out from the village on the Capel Curig road and is served by the regular S2 Sherpa bus from Llanrwst.
The newly built annexe to the hotel, a timber clad, single storey building, houses dormitories, washrooms and a self-catering kitchen. (Self caterers should be aware that the facilities are currently limited to one domestic cooker and two microwaves so at busy times there is likely to be some queueing.) While dormitory and washing facilities are similar to those at other YHA hostels, reception, the dining room and the quiet room are shared with other customers of the complex. An extensive range of reasonably priced meals is available in the hotel bar along with a full range of alcoholic beverages! A pool table, dart board and television are available in the Tavern or hotel bar.
The hostel is available throughout the year.
