| Issue 22 | ![]() |
February 2004 |
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The Pass of Llanberis, that deep cleft in the mountains dividing Snowdon from the Glyders, reaches its apex at a place called Pen-y-Pass. This is a mecca for mountain climbers, giving access to three separate routes to the summit of Snowdon, the Pig track and the Miners track for walkers and Crib Goch for scramblers, with the advantage of being the highest of the start points at 356m. Here the National Park authority provides a car park and the Youth Hostels Association provides overnight accommodation.

Following a period of mild but wet weather, my visit coincided with a brief cold snap. It was very cold with light sleet falling as I arrived in the early afternoon. Any thought of going out again was quickly dispelled as a blizzard soon set in and continued till nightfall. The morning however dawned bright and still and my walk up the miners track as far as the upper lake was a joy. In the still, frosted landscape there was no sound but the crunching of boot on ice and it would be at least another hour before I met another walker on this wintry Wednesday morning.
The Routes:
The Miners Track This begins in very gentle fashion along a broad track, passing two lakes and the ruined buildings of a small copper mine before arriving at the upper lake, the beautifully situated Glaslyn. This part of the walk can be done by any reasonably fit person in virtually any weather. From the upper lake the path climbs steeply, joining the Pig track on its way to the summit.
The Pig track This is the more popular of the walkers routes to the summit. Unlike the miners track there is a steep ascent at the beginning and the track is narrower but in good condition, making for an interesting and not too difficult ascent.
Crib Goch A much more adventurous route for the mountain goats; the path traverses a narrow ridge, requiring the use of hands and a good head for heights. This very popular route can be dangerous in some weather conditions.
There is another useful path from Pen-y-Pass, not up Snowdon this time but up the southern ridge of Glyder Fawr. Follow the footpath leading through the hostel garden for a relatively easy but not well trod way up to the Glyders.

The main building of Pen-y-Pass Youth Hostel was for many years the Gorphwysfa Hotel, a popular climbing centre with its heyday in the early part of the 20th century. The guestbook on display in the hostel has entries for 1913/14 from G M Trevelyan (eminent historian and first president of YHA), Aldous Huxley (the author) and George Mallory ( ill-fated Everest climber). It was opened as a youth hostel in 1971 and now provides the following facilities:
A spacious, well furnished and warm lounge, provided with a piano but hardly any books ( with the notable exception of the Cyclists Gazette of 1961, an interesting read).
A fair sized self-catering kitchen with a nearby utilitarian dining room with good views.
A smart dining area for those taking hostel meals.
A small bar area, with comfortable seating and an original fireplace but sadly no open fire. The bar stocks a good range of alcoholic drinks.
A games room with pool table and table football.
Parking is available in the National Park car park opposite the hostel. To avoid having to pay the charge of £4 normally payable from 9.30 to 17.30 in this car park obtain a permit from the hostel for 50p (limited number available)
YHA Pen-y-Pass is open every day of the year and has full daytime access.
 
Public Transport.
Pen-y-Pass is well served by buses throughout the year. Part of the National Park car park is used as the hub of the Snowdon Sherpa network, in effect it is a small bus station. The following buses leave from Pen-y-Pass:
S1.To Llanberis (for Llanberis YHA)
S2.To Capel Curig (passes Capel Curig YHA), Betws-y-Coed (passes Betws-y-Coed YHA) and Llanrwst
S3.To Capel Curig and Bethesda (passes Idwal Cottage YHA)
97A.To Beddgelert and Porthmadog (passes Bryn Gwynant YHA). Connection at Beddgelert on S4 to Caernarfon(passes Snowdon Ranger YHA).

