| Issue 24 | |
June 2004 |
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To walk on the Pembrokeshire cliffs is an enjoyable experience at any time of year, do so in late spring or early summer and there is an added bonus, a remarkable floral extravaganza as nature's garden reveals its incredible diversity and fecundity, resulting in a riot of colour. Every turning brings a different combination of colours as subtle changes of aspect, underlying soil composition, drainage or disturbance lead to the predominance of different plants; an old stone wall covered in clumps of pink thrift; a grassy bank with massed ranks of bluebells; a one-time patch of gorse scrub recently destoyed by fire now covered phoenix like by proud spikes of oxe-eye daisy, bright white on a black background.
For my visit to Pembokeshire at the end of May I stayed at Pwll Deri Youth Hostel. A small building in an isolated hamlet, astride the coastal path and facing out to sea, there can be few hostels better placed for coast path walkers.
There's no need to walk out and back on the same route when walking the coast path in this area. Catch the bus, the Strumble Shuttle, to a suitable starting point and walk back. The bus journey is an experience in itself, a forty minute scenic drive as the bus winds its way along a single track road, passing rocky tors to Strumble Head and eventually reaching Fishguard; good value for £1.40 (2004 price).
Fishguard is an unassuming small town, once dependant on fishing and now mainly known as the starting point for the ferry to Ireland. The first mile or so of coastal path from the town centre to the suburb of Goodwick is known as the Marine Walk. This gives good views over both the old and new harbours and information boards along the way provide a guide to the history of the area. Goodwick is the last place to buy provisions or a coffee on the walk back to Pwll Deri.
The route climbs steeply from Goodwick then follows the coast via Strumble Head and its lighthouse to Pwll Deri. The walking is relatively easy, not many dips and climbs and rarely close enough to the cliff edge to cause anxiety. Look out for the memorial stone at Carregwasted Point, commemorating the last landing by hostile foreign army in 1797, an ill-planned affair which descended into farce and surrender at Fishguard. During my walk the sun shone brightly from a clear blue sky and a refreshing breeze blew in from the sea; this was coastal walking at its very best! Leaving Fishguard just after noon and taking several short breaks I was back at the hostel around 4.30pm.
The hostel is self-catering only but cooking here is a pleasure with the constant distraction of the view from the kitchen, out to sea and along the serrated edge of the Pembrokeshire coast as it sweeps away to St Davids Head, just visible in the far distance. On a more practical note the kitchen is a little on the small side and the washup area is inconveniently situated on the far side of the dining room. For 2007 there is an additional small kitchen, formerly part of the warden's accommodation. There are no shops or pubs nearby so its best to bring all food and drink with you. The dining room is plainly furnished and along with the rest of the hostel has recently been re-decorated. The adjoining conservatory is an alternative place to eat your meal or relax in the evening, with uninterrupted views out to sea.
There is parking within the hostel grounds for about eight cars with more space at a nearby layby.
Camping is available within the grounds with space for three or four tents on a fairly level surface.
Public Transport.
During the summer months ( 5 May to 23 September 2007) the hostel is served by the Strumble Shuttle. The bus stop is at Trefasser Cross a 3/4 mile walk down a country lane from the hostel. There are three buses daily in each direction from Fishguard and St Davids.
There is a frequent (approx hourly) bus service from Haverfordwest rail station to Fishguard (Mon-Sat).
Ferry: Pwll Deri is 4 miles by road from Fishguard Harbour (at Goodwick) for the ferry to Rosslare in Ireland.
Opening 2008
Pwll Deri Youth Hostel is open in 2008 every day from 28 April to 30 September.
