| Issue 25 | |
August 2004 |
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The vast open common of the Black Mountain, which forms the western portion of the Brecon Beacons National Park, ends dramatically on its northern side at the cliffs known as the Carmarthen Vans (Van or Fan = peak). This is an excellent walking area in a quiet away from it all location and Llanddeusant Youth Hostel is a rare accommodation provider in the area.
I sat by the cairn on Fan Foel to get my breath back, cool down and eat my lunch. Two walkers were making their way to the nearby summit of Fan Brycheiniog but there was no-one else in sight. The sun was now beating down from a clear blue sky and there was little wind. A small flock of house martins cruised through the air then swept down low across the edge of the escarpment. A few sheep bleated in the distance and there was the occasional buzz of insects, but no other sound. To the north a pastoral landscape stretched almost as far as the eye could see, with on the far horizon the hazy dark bulk of distant high mountains ( the southern edge of Snowdonia?) To the south and west lay a broad sweep of bare, untamed, rolling moorland with glimpses of the sea. This was the Carmarthen Vans on a sunny Saturday in July.
It had been a rather hurried ascent: the weather forcast had promised, or threatened, temperatures of 28C in South Wales that day but the early morning was grey and slightly chill as I negotiated the footpath out of Llanddeusant along the north side of the Sawddwe valley. Open country was soon reached and a steady ascent begun on a clear track.
Glances at the sky showed a large patch of blue heading south; could I reach the summit before being exposed to the full blast of the sun? Well I almost made it: the track thinned and eventually vanished but the destination could be clearly seen, and in the end only the final, and steepest part, had to be climbed in full sun.
Apart from a small dip below Picws Du the walking was now on the level and in these conditions a sheer delight. At one point I stopped near the edge and watched the broad back of a red kite drifting lazily below me. The return was down to the heat shrivelled Llyn y Fan Fach and along the valley bottom track to the car park. There were more people here, some cooling off in the fresh fast flowing stream. The finish was along the narrow road leading to the hostel and a much needed long cold drink.
A map of this 8.5 mile circular walk is available at the hostel (50p). The main route is not recommended in bad weather.
This self-catering only hostel is situated in the tiny hamlet of Llanddeusant, comprising three houses, the hostel and the 14th century church. There is no shop at the hostel or nearby so you need to bring all provisions with you. The building was originally the Red Lion Inn before becoming a youth hostel and a sign on the wall still bears the name but unfortunately it is no longer licensed. There is however a useful pub only a mile away (20 minutes walk along a quiet country lane). The Cross Inn serves Welsh brewed real ale and provides meals, with steaks from Welsh Black cattle a speciality (booking recommended to guarantee a table).
The hostel has an open plan layout downstairs comprising the fully equipped kitchen, a dining area with a long wooden table and benches, and a very pleasant sitting area, comfortably furnished and with an open fire for the cooler months (complementing the full central heating). There is a lawned area at the front of the building equipped with seats, a picnic bench and a barbecue. The lawn can be used for camping for a limited number of tents on a level site. Parking for cars is available in the grounds.
Public Transport. The nearest rail station is at Llangadog (7 miles by country lanes) or Llandovery (10 miles by Cambrian Way). In the summer there are three trains per day travelling from Swansea or Shrewsbury to these stations (one less on Sundays). There are no local buses.
By road. Turn off the A4069 Llangadog to Brynaman road onto a narrow minor road to Llanddeusant. It is possible to lose your way in a maze of byways and you may find yourself following a flock of sheep or a giant fibreglass septic tank! but you'll get there eventually.
On foot. The route of the Cambrian Way passes through Llanddeusant and links it to YHA Llwyn-y-Celyn by a high and strenuous mountain route (16 miles).
