| Issue 26 | |
October 2004 |
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The town of Bangor on the North Wales coast is not the most obvious of tourist destinations. It does not have a beach or a medieval castle and its cathedral is a modest affair, more like a parish church in stature. It styles itself 'city of learning' and its university is its dominating feature and economic driving force. Where it does score is as a base for touring the surrounding area, which has a wealth of attractions. The mountains of Snowdonia are close by and there are beaches aplenty on the Lleyn Peninsular and on Anglesey. For the youth hosteller Bangor provides the nearest bed to the beaches and other attractions of Anglesey.
The A55 curves around Bangor before swooping over the high level Britannia Bridge to Ynys Mon, the Isle of Anglesey. Turn right immediately on leaving the bridge and a lay-by is reached giving a superb view of the Menai straits with Telford's suspension bridge and a backdrop of the mountains of Snowdonia. Continueing along this road past the small town of Menai Bridge the road hugs the coast but views are restricted by trees until the small resort town of Beaumaris is reached.
Beaumaris was established by Edward 1 in the late 13th century, hence the French name , meaning beautiful marsh. While the second part of the name has lost its significance this is still a very attractive place, making it popular with visitors to the area. The castle is a bit of a surprise; its very different to Edward's other strongholds nearby eg Caernarfon or Conwy; Beaumaris castle is squat, almost homely compared to the other towering edifices. Other attractions in the town are the old gaol and courthouse, a pier and promenade, and sea trips around Puffin Island in summer.
My plan was to leave the car here and walk to Penmon Point and back. Having taken refreshments at the Pier House Cafe, a bright and cheery place with superb views out over the Menai Straits and mountains, I set out on the path around the headland towards Penmon. The first section was fine but there followed a mile or two of road walking, not unpleasant with only moderate traffic, but not particularly interesting and I was beginning to think I should have driven further. Things improved when the road returned to the coast and soon Penmon Priory was reached. This is a fascinating spot, steeped in early Christian history. Look out for St Seriol's well ( 6th century), the ancient crosses and fonts in the church and the enormous early 17th century stone dovecote. A further 20 minute walk led to the headland with its views of Puffin Island and the lighthouse, with Penmon Cafe for a refreshing pot of tea. On the return I decided to follow signs to the Anglesey Coast Path. Despite the signs and the indication of a path on the map the only route I could find was along the beach; this was fine as the tide was now out (it would have been impossible at high tide) and resulted in an exhilarating return journey in the bright but blustery conditions.
Bangor pier. Incredibly long, recently restored Victorian pier, it almost seems you can walk across to Anglesey.
Penrhyn Castle. 19th century mock Norman castle, built by the Pennant family, owners of the local slate quarries, now in the care of the National Trust.
Anglesey. Beaches, coast walks, history etc.
Caernarfon. Magnificent castle, terminus of Welsh Highland Railway.
Snowdonia. The highest mountains in Wales.
....and further afield why not try a day trip to Ireland. A 30 minute rail journey to Holyhead followed by the 99 minute crossing and you could be in Dublin by lunchtime. Details from www.bookstenaline.com/dayt .
Bangor Youth Hostel is a Victorian house which was once occupied by the estate manager of the Penrhyn Estate and it has been owned by YHA since 1965. It is situated near the High Street and is about a 25 minute walk from the rail station. It posseses all the facilities you would expect in a medium/ large youth hostel, including full catering service with table licence, members kitchen with separate dining area, comfortable tv lounge, games room with pool and table football, on-site parking, and a lawned garden to the rear of the building.
Public Transport.
A frequent train service runs to Bangor from Crewe, Manchester and Holyhead ( connections with Irish ferries). Bangor is the hub of local bus routes with services to Caernarfon, Llanberis, Bethesda, Beaumaris and other destinations.
