| Issue 28 | |
May 2005 |
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Scenic
Cycling and the Simple life at YHA Dolgoch hostel - text and photos by cycle routes - text and photos by |
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Dolgoch is situated about 10 miles (16 km) east of Tregaron, just off the old drovers road to Abergwesyn and Beulah. This single track road was recently voted in the Times as the most scenic in Wales and in the top five in Gt Britain. However following periods of rain it may be impassible at one point where it crosses the river.
Running at right angles to this road is the River Tywi, the boundaries between the counties of Powys and Ceredigion. The driveway to YHA Dolgoch bunkhouse runs down the valley for 5/8 mile ( 1km) close to the river. The track is unsurfaced but quite passable. The hostel car park is behind the buildings ( downstream side).
The hostel is an old farmhouse which was built in the 18th century and even in the 1950's was being worked by horseback. Much of the surrounding area has been planted with forest since then, although much of the land close to the hostel is rough grassland and partially grazed by sheep on the high valley side east of the R. Tywi.
A bridle path runs down the drive and on from the hostel down the valley to Llyn Brianne. It can be wet in places but is very tranquil and scenic. Llyn Brianne is a huge reservoir which powers a hydro electricity station. Most of the drovers stopped coming this way in the 1850s when rail traffic began to be used to take the animals to English markets more quickly. Now a growing number of visitors explore the quiet lanes, a mixture of first time visits and those lured back time and again.
Dolgoch is situated in the Elenydd ( pronounced Elenith) hills. It is a mixture of high hills and deep valleys, a vast area of uncompromising wilderness, rising in some places to over 2000 feet. The Elenydd is surrounded by a string of villages and four towns, Tregaron, Llandovery, Llanwrtyd Wells and Rhayader.
The area gives fantastic views and great walking, including routes to YHA Tregaron ( Blaencaron) and Tyncornel. It certainly creates great memories, even in wet weather and with the right clothing the walks are rewarding and certainly promising of lovely memorable days when it is dry and sunny.
A couple of buzzards have nested at the forest edge high above the hostel and these large and magnificent birds may be seen and certainly heard much of the time. Watch out too for red kites, easily distinguished by the forked tail as they swoop and soar high above.
Dolgoch offers a unique experience. It is very quiet, because of this and the stunning location many people find a stay here positively uplifting. The birdsong, the sound of the river rippling over well worn stones nearby, the views to the sheep on the crags, the fantastic skies at night and just that feeling of being away from it all create the ambience.
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These three suggestions are from Anne and Greg Sharpe, volunteer wardens at Dolgoch. |
Route 1 Dolgoch to Rhandirmwyn 27 miles
Follow the road down the valley from the hostel past Llyn Brianne and Dinas RSPB reserve to the village of Rhandirmwyn. Turn right here, cross the river and return on the same route. This route may be extended from the top end of the reservoir to visit Soar y Mynydd Chapel. Continue up the Camddwr Valley and turn right on the Tregaron to Abergwesyn road.
Route 2 Dolgoch to Llanwrtyd Wells 22 miles
Take the Tregaron to Abergwesyn road. The OS map marks "fords" just beyond the Devils Staircase: these are three causeways above usual river level, liable to be flooded after prolonged rain. At Abergwesyn turn left to Beulah. Go left on the A483 for about !/3 mile then go south (turn right) on an old Roman road to Cefn Glancamddwr and on to Llanwrtyd Wells (via the town's railway station). Cross the A483 to return to Abergwesyn up the beautiful Irfon Valley, retracing one's route from Abergwesyn to Dolgoch. The latter is part of the Lon Las Cymru long distance cycle route between Tregaron and Beulah.
Route 3 Dolgoch to Strata Florida Abbey 16 miles (15 miles off road)
From the end of the hostel drive, cross river and after a short distance turn up unmade track on left to proceed up the valley through the Tywi Forest. Eventually upon reaching a surfaced road ( car park and picnic area here) you are 1/2 mile or so from the remains of Srata Florida Abbey (Cadw site) This is less than a mile from the village of Pontrhydfendigaid. Return by same route.
Llyn Brianne - scenic reservoir
Dinas RSPB Reserve - lovely short circular walk through woods... and of course there are birds
Soar-y-Mynedd Chapel - simple chapel, still in use, with boxed pews
Tregaron to Beulah road - don't miss the most scenic route in Wales !
Strata Florida Abbey - ruined abbey in the care of Cadw
Dolgoch Bunkhouse offers simple facilities. It has no mains electricity and therefore gas is the main source of power. Lighting is provided by gas mantles downstairs and the stairs are now lit by lamps powered by a solar panel. This idea is to be extended to the dormitories but at present it is advisable to take a good torch. Most of the ground floor is occupied by a combined lounge, dining and kitchen area, heated chiefly by a large coal fire. There is a shower on the ground floor with instant heat from a gas boiler.
Upstairs the rooms accommodate 4, 5 and 12 beds. Although designated a bunkhouse there is no need to take bedding; sheet sleeping bags, blankets, duvets( and wonderful pillows! ) are all provided.
Cooking is on gas stoves and as it is self-catering only you do need to take your own food. Because everything here is run by volunteers you will be expected to clear up after yourself and leave the hostel tidy to help things along - its all part of the experience!
For more information on the hostel and surrounding area visit www.elenydd-hostels.co.uk, the website of the Elenydd Wilderness Hostels Trust.
