| Issue 29 | |
July 2005 |
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A soft light rain was falling as I leaned on the parapet of the Iron Bridge, looking down on the dark water of the Afon Nyfer. A cormorant moved slowly across the water, then suddenly vanished below the surface. It soon bobbed up again, and now there was a long, wriggling, silver body in its mouth, an eel, around a foot long. Then the cormorant dived again below the water, re-emerging moments later, still holding tight to the eel. This performance was repeated five or six times, until the doomed eel finally slid down the birds throat. Was it trying to kill the eel before eating it or was it just trying to get it correctly aligned before the big swallow? Whatever the reason the outcome was satisfactory for the bird and it remained quiet in the water, digesting its enormous meal.
This encounter was on the Nevern estuary circular walk, an easy 7km route from Newport, taking in the Parrog, Newport's old dock, the estuary, well known for its bird life, and Newport Sands, a wide sweep of smooth grey sand.
Newport, or Trefdraeth as it is known in Welsh, is a large coastal village lying roughly halfway between Fishguard and Cardigan in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Its history dates back to its foundation as a Norman enclave around 1200 by William Fitzmartin, Lord of Cemaes. He build the castle, now part gothic ivy clad ruin and part victorian mansion (no public access). From the 16th century it became an important port and centre for shipbuilding, some evidence of which can still be seen at the Parrog. Today it is a quiet place well suited for touring the surrounding countryside, walking the coast path or the hilly hinterland and observing the abundant wild life.
Nevern Estuary Walk. A short easy walk full of interest including a fine sandy beach and the Neolithic burial chamber of Carreg Coetan Arthur (2hours).
Coastal footpath to Dinas Island. Some gradients on this section of the coast path but not too strenous. Good beaches at Pwllgwaelod and Cwm-y-Eglws where the 'island' is joined to the mainland by a freshwater marsh. Possibility of a bus back from Pwllgwaelod (limited service).
Newport Millennium Trail. This excellent circular walk has a bit of everything. It starts with a short section of coast path before heading inland on field paths, through woods, across gorse bog and along hidden byways. The highpoint, in more than one sense, is the climb to the summit of Carn Ingli (347m), the rocky outcrop that towers over Newport. Buy the leaflet from the National Park information office and follow the instructions very carefully. Allow half a day for this walk.
Newport Sands. A wide sweep of fine grey sand with car park and parking allowed on part of beach. Can be reached on foot by following the coast path ( 30 mins): the adventurous are sometimes tempted to wade across the river from the Parrog at low tide.
Cwm-yr-Eglwys. Sheltered sandy cove facing north-east with golden sand and clear water. Named after St Brynach's church which was almost completely destroyed in a great storm in 1859, only one wall and the burial ground remain. Parking nearby.
Pwllgwaelod. Sandy cove looking out towards Fishguard Harbour. A cafe is open in the summer with seating inside or out in the pleasant garden, serving a delicious pot of coffee. Car park. A level well surfaced path along the edge of the marsh links this beach to Cwm-yr-Eglwys (10 mins).
Castell Henllys. A recreation of an Iron Age hillfort on original foundations.
Cycle Hire. Cycles may be hired in the village.
The youth hostel at Newport was established in 1995 in a part of the former school building, the other part being occupied by the South West Wales Eco-centre.
The hostel is close to the centre of Newport and is only a few minutes walk from several shops and pubs. There is parking in the old school yard. It is a self catering only hostel run by volunteer wardens. There is a modern self-catering kitchen with dining area and upstairs is a large lounge with views out over the village to the castle. The hostel has central heating throughout.
Public Transport
The nearest rail station and main transport hub is at Haverfordwest. From here there is a regular bus service (approx hourly) to Newport on Richards Bros service 412 taking just over an hour for the journey. The Poppit Rocket gives a link to Poppit Sands Youth Hostel and points along the coast between Fishguard and Cardigan ( three times daily in summer).
