| Issue 30 | |
September 2005 |
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With “an ever-increasing number of grandchildren ready to experience hostelling” Margaret Lloyd does some reconnoitring at YHA Borth to assess its suitability for a family break. Her conclusion? – “this is the place”.
On a glorious Friday evening in early August, I leave work and head north. I arrive at Borth soon after seven, and can’t resist driving up on the point at the south end of the beach to look out over the bay.
In a largely undiscovered area on the west coast of Wales, Borth, almost in the centre of Cardigan Bay, is 9km north of the University town of Aberystwyth. Much of Ceredigion’s 60-mile coast is designated Heritage Coast, and the Cambrian Mountains form a splendid backdrop to this beautiful coastline.
‘Y Borth’, from ‘porth’, is Welsh for port or harbour, probably used here in the sense of safe haven, as there is no harbour as such. Borth was known as such a place of safety as long ago as Elizabethan times for herring fishermen fishing this coast. Indeed its history as a port of seafarers is reflected in the names of some of the older cottages – ‘Frolic’, ‘Beatrice’ and ‘Dovey Belle’. What evocative names these are! The folk at the lifeboat station (open during the summer) are always happy to talk to you about the sea and its influence here.
For generations of families, (particularly from the Midlands), Borth was the destination of choice for the traditional British seaside holiday. Families still choose Borth for their holiday, and it seems most of them are staying at the hostel this weekend! There is a great buzz here. Some families are still eating in the hostel restaurant; my late arrival had precluded my joining in, but it does smell good. I join the families in the self catering kitchen, talking about what they had, or would be, doing. What an amazing range of activities! If families today are more adventurous and demanding than their forbears, it seems that Borth still fits the bill. There really seems to be something for everyone within easy reach. It’s a good start!
After supper, with the sun setting directly opposite the hostel, it is time for an invigorating walk along the beach and around the village, to see it with younger eyes.
The 4km of gently shelving beach and pebbled bank are backed by an eclectic mix of housing, shops, pubs and holiday accommodation. The hostel, a converted Edwardian house, is just 30 metres from the beach. The attraction of traditional beach activities still holds true for children of all ages. For the third year running, Borth won an ENCAMS seaside award again in 2005, and the beach has lifeguards during the summer season.
Borth is popular with surfers too, and there is some boating, though not as yet facilities here for hiring either. Boats can be hired at Aberystwyth. On my evening walk along the beach, fishermen (and women) of all ages were fishing for their supper – some with sunset watchers sat alongside.
The dolphins resident in Cardigan Bay can be visited on boat trips from Newquay, further down the coast – but you might see them from the headland if you take the coast path from Borth to Clarach and Aberystwyth.
During the spring and autumn equinox tides, the submerged forest at either end of the bay is exposed. This forest developed after the last glaciation, but was submerged due to global warming (natural, in this case). The remains have been dated at around 4,000 years.
Putting these musings to one side, I return to the hostel, ready for my information gathering exercise on Saturday
My first awareness on Saturday morning is of a strange whistling sound. It’s the wind; matched, on looking out of the window, by torrential rain. What was that about traditional British summer holidays………..?
As it happens, I find the seaside in bad weather quite exhilarating, so I won’t be put off. Straight after breakfast, I head for the nature reserve at Ynyslas. The Dyfi National Nature Reserve (NNR), with its excellent information centre hidden amongst the dunes, lies 4km north of Borth at the mouth of the Dyfi estuary. The Dyfi is registered internationally as a Biosphere reserve, one of only 11 such sites in Britain. The staff at the centre are friendly and helpful, and there are a few interactive activities here, as well as lots of information and superb natural history material. The centre’s programme of events is displayed here and at the hostel.
Also at the hostel is a superb mural, illustrating the birdlife of the Dyfi estuary, which was painted by RSPB volunteers from the reserve at Ynyshir, further up the estuary at Glandyfi. This reserve offers plenty of space for families to explore, and children to run around in, as well as providing excellent bird watching opportunities.
The hostel has its own well-appointed Field Studies Centre, and groups staying here can study coastal, estuarine and wetland habitats – nearby Cors Fochno Special Area of Conservation (mainly marshland and bog) is part of the NNR. Some activities are available at the hostel, particularly for primary groups, who are regular visitors here. The turf roof of the Centre was built with guidance from the Centre for Alternative Technology at Machynlleth.
A visit to the Centre for Alternative Technology is a must. From the entry via the 60m cliff railway powered entirely by water to the interactive displays demonstrating the power of wind water and sun, this must be the best disguised (and fun) educational experience around.
The Tourist Information Centre near the train station was my next port of call (no pun intended). Again, a most friendly and helpful young woman guided me through the possibilities, and as she lived in Aberystwyth had some real local knowledge.
Wet weather activities in Borth itself are very limited, there is really only the Animalarium – and part of that is outdoors (recommended – but as I didn’t have a grandchild to use as an excuse, I didn’t try it out).
Many of the ‘Great Little Trains of Wales’ are within reach. Borth train station is on the Cambrian Coast Railway line, running from Aberystwyth to Pwllheli, and runs literally along the coast for most of its journey. This line connects with the Welsh Highland Railway (from Porthmadog – ride the footplate and visit the workshops), the Ffestiniog Railway (Porthmadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog) and with the Vale of Rheidol Railway (Aberystwyth to spectacular Devils Bridge).
The nearest towns are Machynlleth and Aberystwyth. Machynlleth – home of the first Welsh Parliament, set up by Owain Glyndwr in the 15th Century, is a market town with a flourishing Wednesday market, its charter granted by Edward 1st in 1291. The town has a fascinating mix of architectural styles, with many quirky details to spot. “The Parliament House” (not the original, although a genuine medieval building) now houses an Owain Glyndwr exhibition. Also at ‘Mach’ is Celtica, a fascinating exhibition centre on Celtic life and history.
Aberystwyth, a popular resort since Victorian times, is now best know as the home of the National Library of Wales and Aberystwyth University. Many of the splendid 4/5 storey Victorian and Edwardian buildings lining the sea front are now accommodation for the student population, who add to the buzz that ‘Aber’ has right through the year. The Electric Cliff Railway, the longest in Britain, is the easy way up Constitution Hill. The Camera Obscura, the views, - and the refreshments at the summit café - make it well worth the effort.
What’s this – a write up about a youth hostel visit with no mention of walking or cycling routes? There is of course plenty of walking to do in the surrounding area – the hostel is close enough to several ranges to make this an ideal base for serious walkers. There is a leaflet at the hostel (25p) outlining a 3 mile (approx.) circular walk looking at the local highlights, a super coastal walk into Aberystwyth, and plenty of information at the TIC. Especially suitable for families is Bwlch Nant yr Arian (on the A44 towards Llangurig), one of the Forestry Commission’s Forest Visitor Centre, with walks and mountain biking (no hire available), as well as picnic sites, exhibition, information etc.
Reluctantly, I find it is time to leave to start my journey home. There need be no more reconnoitring trips though – this is the place!
Borth is connected via Shrewsbury and Birmingham to the National Rail Network, and is also served by a bus service connecting via Aberystwyth to national coach / bus services. In fact, the bus stop is right opposite the hostel.
A surprising area of Wales is accessible via regional rail services and local buses. Arriva trains Wales are the main provider.
Text and photos: Margaret Lloyd